Gold is a metal that will not corrode, rust, or tarnish, and,
although it is very strong, it is also the most malleable of all
metals. The purity of gold is measured in karats, and in 24
parts. 24K gold is gold in its purest form; 12K gold is 50%
gold and 50% alloy. 24K gold is very soft and is not ideal for
jewelry and its everyday use and wear. Alloys such as silver,
copper, nickel, and zinc are added to gold for strength and
color. 18k gold is durable yet has a beautiful
appearance. 14K gold is very strong due to the amount of alloy
included and still offers a beautiful shine. This is the most
common karat used in jewelry. 10K gold is the strongest of the
karats containing 41.7% gold and a larger amount of alloy.
The color and karat of gold is established by the percent of
alloy added to the gold. For instance, 14K gold is an alloy
consisting of 14 parts pure gold and 10 parts other
metals. When gold is alloyed with copper and silver the shades
of yellow will differ. The fewer alloys added, the brighter the
gold's color will be. If gold is alloyed with nickel or
palladium, it turns to white gold. Yellow gold and white gold
normally share the same malleability and strength as each
other. White gold's color is comparable to platinum, but these
two metals have separate properties and vary in
cost. White gold is usually plated with Rhodium, which is a
form of the platinum family. This is done to brighten the
whiteness of the gold.
So what is rose gold? Rose gold is created when
copper is alloyed with pure 24-karat gold. It varies so that
the level of copper is anywhere from 25% to 66.6% within the
gold. Rose gold, like white gold, has the same strength and
malleability properties as yellow gold. It is stronger at 10K
while softer at 22K, but, again, it is more valuable at the higher
karat. Rose gold is also called red gold and pink gold.
Platinum is relatively rare, and it is more valuable than
gold. It has become the most precious of all metals used in
jewelry. Its popularity has resurfaced in recent years due to
its durability and nice white, silver-looking color. Platinum
is heavy and is offered in a purer form. Small amounts of
iridium and ruthenium, rare metals in the platinum family, are usually
added to increase its hardness and durability. Jewelry that is
made is either 90 or 95% platinum and 10 or 5% alloy,
respectively. Platinum is not measured in karats like gold, but
it is stamped differently. The stamps, either PT or PLAT,
identify the fineness of the platinum. Jewelry settings made of
platinum provide a nice accent to white diamonds. Platinum has
less chance of turning color than white gold due to its
purity. This metal is also an excellent choice for people who
may be allergic to other metals such as nickel, which may be added to
gold.
Silver is another popular metal used in jewelry. It
is bright and durable, and it is more abundant than gold. It
does not carry the popularity of gold or platinum, because it does tarnish
and can lose its bright shiny color easily. Because of this,
jewelers will avoid using silver in a diamond setting or as fine
jewelry. However, in the early 19th century, white gold was not
readily made, and platinum was not refined, so jewelers used sterling
silver to set diamonds in. Sterling silver is less expensive
because of its flaws, and it is often identified by the stamp 925.